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<blockquote data-quote="Lehmden" data-source="post: 1290113" data-attributes="member: 109222"><p>Hi.</p><p>There is a new version of Media-Buddy available for download, 1.1.0.29.</p><p></p><p>Bugs have been fixed and various external programs have been updated.</p><p>In addition, Media-Buddy can now automatically download trailers for feature films. They are packed with the film and can thus be used in various HTPC programs to create a "real" cinema feeling, in which one or two trailers are played before the actual film.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]210551[/ATTACH]</p><p>You only need to check the mark next to "trailer"...</p><p></p><p>However, most of the changes can be found in the image area.</p><p>On the one hand, you can now copy Exif metadata from one image to another with Media-Buddy. The Exif metadata contains data such as the camera used, the lens, the exposure settings, but also e.g. GPS coordinates and much more. Unfortunately, when editing the photos, this metadata is too often changed, damaged or even removed. With Media-Buddy you can now copy the Exif data from the unedited original photos to the edited "masterpieces".</p><p>All file types that can also be processed by Exiftool are supported. However, there are only a few file types that can fully contain all Exif files. In addition to the camera RAW file types, these are primarily .jpg, .tif and many of the native formats of image processing programs such as .psd (Adobe Photoshop) etc... .png also saves Exif metadata, but unfortunately only a very small part of the possible Data. Therefore I would not recommend .png as a format if you want to keep the Exif data. In addition to .jpg as a very heavily compressed but also very lossy format, you should primarily use .tif. Depending on the setting, .tif also compresses, although not nearly as much as .jpg. But the format is lossless. Especially with intermediate steps you should avoid .jpg as much as possible, because the losses add up every time you save and read in again. It is therefore essential to use .tif or .psd here, even if the files are much larger. Only when everything is really ready can you save the photo as a .jpg and thus save about 90% space with good quality.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]210552[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>As usual, you select the source and destination folder and Media-Buddy does the rest. The images must have the exact same file name so that the data can be copied. Only the file extension can be different. For example, you can copy the Exif data from .jpg files to .tif files. If the names do not match, the corresponding files are simply omitted.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]210553[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>In addition, the processing has been revised and expanded again. So you can now choose different color options color, black and white and sepia (the brownish "antique" look that old photos often have), and that in any combination.</p><p>Colour:</p><p>[ATTACH=full]210539[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Black & White:</p><p>[ATTACH=full]210538[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Sepia:</p><p>[ATTACH=full]210537[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>And you can now choose two different variants when normalizing, "Nature" and "Studio". The easiest way to explain the differences is with examples. The "Nature" setting works very well for landscape shots and the like with many different colors and brightnesses. However, if you have photos with a monochrome background, as is often the case with studio. Photos is the case, it can very easily lead to color distortions.</p><p></p><p>First, the example from above is taken up again:</p><p>Original:</p><p>[ATTACH=full]210550[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>"Nature"</p><p>[ATTACH=full]210548[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>"Studio"</p><p>[ATTACH=full]210539[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>You can see immediately that the "Nature" variant has a color cast and the young lady's face has turned green. The "studio" variant is probably the best here.</p><p></p><p>As a counter-example, a recording from my Heligoland trip a few weeks ago. It has to be said that the photo was taken early in the morning under a gray sky and poor lighting conditions. It actually looked a lot like the original photo.</p><p></p><p>Original:</p><p>[ATTACH=full]210549[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>"Nature"</p><p>[ATTACH=full]210547[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>"Studio"</p><p>[ATTACH=full]210546[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Here the "Studio" version is slightly better than the original, but the "Nature" version is by far the best.</p><p></p><p>The installation file can be found where it is always found (see first post). It is currently being uploaded. So it may take a moment until it's really online. And now have fun.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Lehmden, post: 1290113, member: 109222"] Hi. There is a new version of Media-Buddy available for download, 1.1.0.29. Bugs have been fixed and various external programs have been updated. In addition, Media-Buddy can now automatically download trailers for feature films. They are packed with the film and can thus be used in various HTPC programs to create a "real" cinema feeling, in which one or two trailers are played before the actual film. [ATTACH=full]210551[/ATTACH] You only need to check the mark next to "trailer"... However, most of the changes can be found in the image area. On the one hand, you can now copy Exif metadata from one image to another with Media-Buddy. The Exif metadata contains data such as the camera used, the lens, the exposure settings, but also e.g. GPS coordinates and much more. Unfortunately, when editing the photos, this metadata is too often changed, damaged or even removed. With Media-Buddy you can now copy the Exif data from the unedited original photos to the edited "masterpieces". All file types that can also be processed by Exiftool are supported. However, there are only a few file types that can fully contain all Exif files. In addition to the camera RAW file types, these are primarily .jpg, .tif and many of the native formats of image processing programs such as .psd (Adobe Photoshop) etc... .png also saves Exif metadata, but unfortunately only a very small part of the possible Data. Therefore I would not recommend .png as a format if you want to keep the Exif data. In addition to .jpg as a very heavily compressed but also very lossy format, you should primarily use .tif. Depending on the setting, .tif also compresses, although not nearly as much as .jpg. But the format is lossless. Especially with intermediate steps you should avoid .jpg as much as possible, because the losses add up every time you save and read in again. It is therefore essential to use .tif or .psd here, even if the files are much larger. Only when everything is really ready can you save the photo as a .jpg and thus save about 90% space with good quality. [ATTACH=full]210552[/ATTACH] As usual, you select the source and destination folder and Media-Buddy does the rest. The images must have the exact same file name so that the data can be copied. Only the file extension can be different. For example, you can copy the Exif data from .jpg files to .tif files. If the names do not match, the corresponding files are simply omitted. [ATTACH=full]210553[/ATTACH] In addition, the processing has been revised and expanded again. So you can now choose different color options color, black and white and sepia (the brownish "antique" look that old photos often have), and that in any combination. Colour: [ATTACH=full]210539[/ATTACH] Black & White: [ATTACH=full]210538[/ATTACH] Sepia: [ATTACH=full]210537[/ATTACH] And you can now choose two different variants when normalizing, "Nature" and "Studio". The easiest way to explain the differences is with examples. The "Nature" setting works very well for landscape shots and the like with many different colors and brightnesses. However, if you have photos with a monochrome background, as is often the case with studio. Photos is the case, it can very easily lead to color distortions. First, the example from above is taken up again: Original: [ATTACH=full]210550[/ATTACH] "Nature" [ATTACH=full]210548[/ATTACH] "Studio" [ATTACH=full]210539[/ATTACH] You can see immediately that the "Nature" variant has a color cast and the young lady's face has turned green. The "studio" variant is probably the best here. As a counter-example, a recording from my Heligoland trip a few weeks ago. It has to be said that the photo was taken early in the morning under a gray sky and poor lighting conditions. It actually looked a lot like the original photo. Original: [ATTACH=full]210549[/ATTACH] "Nature" [ATTACH=full]210547[/ATTACH] "Studio" [ATTACH=full]210546[/ATTACH] Here the "Studio" version is slightly better than the original, but the "Nature" version is by far the best. The installation file can be found where it is always found (see first post). It is currently being uploaded. So it may take a moment until it's really online. And now have fun. [/QUOTE]
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