Well, I finally stopped stalling and started ordering parts for a HTPC a couple weeks ago. No more sharing the desktop.
I'm using a Thermaltake Bach case, Tul socket 754 ATX motherboard, Sempron 2600+, Thermaltake Silent 939 CPU fan, 1GB Patriot RAM, a Samsung 250GB hard drive, Samsung dual layer DVD+-RW drive and Sappire Tech Radeon X1300. I also had an ATi HDTV wonder in it but the remote receiver died within 24 hours and I had to yank everything apart because CompUSA wouldn't just swap out the defective part.
The Tul AX480A7-F motherboad is based on the ATi 200P northbridge (no graphics), ULI M1573 Southbridge and Realtec ALC880 hi def audio chip.
My Jetway uses the same chip combination and has been great so I figured it would be a pretty good board. For those that don't know, Tul is the company that makes the PowerColor line of cards. The board has S/PDIF coax ports built in so I wouldn't have to buy an additional board for that. So far it has been rock solid with no problems at all. The bad stuff... no overclocking (at least in this bios version), the included driver disk is crap, download the drivers instead. The USB and IEEE ports could be placed better too but I can live with that. I'd have to say it's a bargain at $45.
The 2600+ has 64bit support, overclocks well (with a board that supports it anyway) and is cheap. I got $10 off because Newegg gave me credit for a shipping problem on the previous order.
The Silent 939 keeps the CPU temp pretty consistant and cool within a degree load or no load. It doesn't require much more room than a stock cooler. It's not very expensive. I can only hear it up close (a couple feet).
The ATi HDTV card includes crappy old drivers but the hardware seemed to work just fine once you download the updated stuff. MediaPortal couldn't use the analog TV tuner but it did work fine. The Remote Wonder Plus uses RF rather than IR and it has a receiver that plugs into a USB port. The receiver worked fine for about 6 hours and then died. I haven't ever had problems with ATi before so I'll assume it falls into the normal failure rate for any electronics. I was about to start helping figure out how to use the analog tuner with MP but CompUSA made me bring in the entire thing instead of just swapping the part with one from the other box on the shelf.
The RAM works as advertised.
The Samsung parts were OEM units purchased at MicroCenter. Decent price, no rebates... no complaints so far.
The Radeon X1300 256MB was a refurb and cost me $65. Other than the HDTV bandwidth issue the card has worked perfect. (VMR9 requires 10GB/s bandwidth for HDTV) For a passively cooled card it's pretty fast. If you want HDTV and use VMR9 get a 256bit card or 128bit with a higher memory clock. I've made plenty of other observations elsewhere so nuff said.
Ok, now for the case...
I purchsed a black Thermaltake Bach case without the Media Center for just over $100 after shipping.
The case itself appears to share the same back as their other desktop style HTPC cases including Mozart and Tenor. The stuff you read about mounting parts in reviews of those is pretty much true of this case. One exception is the 3.5" drive bays.
There are no openings at the front for the 3.5" drive bays.
Power and HD LEDs are too bright.
USB & IEEE cables are way longer than needed.
Some motherboards will have clearance issues with the front 3.5" drive bays. The Tul works fine though.
The blue light bars on the front don't light evenly. There are two bright spots on each side thanks to the way the plastic is shaped inside.
The DVD drawer opening has no button, you have to drop the front panel or use the remote to eject a disk.
The door was out of adjustment on mine.
The springs for the door are pretty lightweight.
The case is kinda deep compared to stereo components.
Only part of the front is brushed aluminum. The curved parts, top and
bottom are a rough textured finish. You may or may not care for it.
The included fans are an ugly orange color and are noisy unless throttled way down. I think my Antec power supply is running them at about 800RPM... at least that is the speed it's fan is running at.
The front panel is easy to remove. That will come in handy when my
Media Lab kit arrives later this week.
It's a very attractive case really and I am planning on making a few mods to improve some things.
Most of the problems are pretty minor.
The DVD door was easy to fix, just loosen one screw and tighten another to shift it over. You won't belive how nice it was to eliminate that scrrrrrrraaaaaape sound every time the door opened or closed. It was almost like fingernails on a chalkboard.
The case is very quiet once you throttle the fans back or disconnect them. Those back ones are very buzzy and should never have beeen used but at low RPM you can't hear them from a few feet away.
Blocking the front of the power LED with paint or marker makes a huge difference. No more big blue circle on the opposite wall. It's like a flashlight if you don't modify it.
I think grinding the plastic that makes up the vertical blue lights until the part around the LED is circular will even out their light pattern. Right now the opening is a wedge shape that focuses the light into the bright spots I described.
Right now I'm happy with it but wish they would improve it a little. The front panel related stuff I mentioned could all be improved. I think once I get the Media Lab kit installed the cool factor will take over and I'll be thrilled with it.
The only cases I would choose instead would be the Silver version or the New Antec which is MicroATX and and that won't hold as many cards.
I'm using a Thermaltake Bach case, Tul socket 754 ATX motherboard, Sempron 2600+, Thermaltake Silent 939 CPU fan, 1GB Patriot RAM, a Samsung 250GB hard drive, Samsung dual layer DVD+-RW drive and Sappire Tech Radeon X1300. I also had an ATi HDTV wonder in it but the remote receiver died within 24 hours and I had to yank everything apart because CompUSA wouldn't just swap out the defective part.
The Tul AX480A7-F motherboad is based on the ATi 200P northbridge (no graphics), ULI M1573 Southbridge and Realtec ALC880 hi def audio chip.
My Jetway uses the same chip combination and has been great so I figured it would be a pretty good board. For those that don't know, Tul is the company that makes the PowerColor line of cards. The board has S/PDIF coax ports built in so I wouldn't have to buy an additional board for that. So far it has been rock solid with no problems at all. The bad stuff... no overclocking (at least in this bios version), the included driver disk is crap, download the drivers instead. The USB and IEEE ports could be placed better too but I can live with that. I'd have to say it's a bargain at $45.
The 2600+ has 64bit support, overclocks well (with a board that supports it anyway) and is cheap. I got $10 off because Newegg gave me credit for a shipping problem on the previous order.
The Silent 939 keeps the CPU temp pretty consistant and cool within a degree load or no load. It doesn't require much more room than a stock cooler. It's not very expensive. I can only hear it up close (a couple feet).
The ATi HDTV card includes crappy old drivers but the hardware seemed to work just fine once you download the updated stuff. MediaPortal couldn't use the analog TV tuner but it did work fine. The Remote Wonder Plus uses RF rather than IR and it has a receiver that plugs into a USB port. The receiver worked fine for about 6 hours and then died. I haven't ever had problems with ATi before so I'll assume it falls into the normal failure rate for any electronics. I was about to start helping figure out how to use the analog tuner with MP but CompUSA made me bring in the entire thing instead of just swapping the part with one from the other box on the shelf.
The RAM works as advertised.
The Samsung parts were OEM units purchased at MicroCenter. Decent price, no rebates... no complaints so far.
The Radeon X1300 256MB was a refurb and cost me $65. Other than the HDTV bandwidth issue the card has worked perfect. (VMR9 requires 10GB/s bandwidth for HDTV) For a passively cooled card it's pretty fast. If you want HDTV and use VMR9 get a 256bit card or 128bit with a higher memory clock. I've made plenty of other observations elsewhere so nuff said.
Ok, now for the case...
I purchsed a black Thermaltake Bach case without the Media Center for just over $100 after shipping.
The case itself appears to share the same back as their other desktop style HTPC cases including Mozart and Tenor. The stuff you read about mounting parts in reviews of those is pretty much true of this case. One exception is the 3.5" drive bays.
There are no openings at the front for the 3.5" drive bays.
Power and HD LEDs are too bright.
USB & IEEE cables are way longer than needed.
Some motherboards will have clearance issues with the front 3.5" drive bays. The Tul works fine though.
The blue light bars on the front don't light evenly. There are two bright spots on each side thanks to the way the plastic is shaped inside.
The DVD drawer opening has no button, you have to drop the front panel or use the remote to eject a disk.
The door was out of adjustment on mine.
The springs for the door are pretty lightweight.
The case is kinda deep compared to stereo components.
Only part of the front is brushed aluminum. The curved parts, top and
bottom are a rough textured finish. You may or may not care for it.
The included fans are an ugly orange color and are noisy unless throttled way down. I think my Antec power supply is running them at about 800RPM... at least that is the speed it's fan is running at.
The front panel is easy to remove. That will come in handy when my
Media Lab kit arrives later this week.
It's a very attractive case really and I am planning on making a few mods to improve some things.
Most of the problems are pretty minor.
The DVD door was easy to fix, just loosen one screw and tighten another to shift it over. You won't belive how nice it was to eliminate that scrrrrrrraaaaaape sound every time the door opened or closed. It was almost like fingernails on a chalkboard.
The case is very quiet once you throttle the fans back or disconnect them. Those back ones are very buzzy and should never have beeen used but at low RPM you can't hear them from a few feet away.
Blocking the front of the power LED with paint or marker makes a huge difference. No more big blue circle on the opposite wall. It's like a flashlight if you don't modify it.
I think grinding the plastic that makes up the vertical blue lights until the part around the LED is circular will even out their light pattern. Right now the opening is a wedge shape that focuses the light into the bright spots I described.
Right now I'm happy with it but wish they would improve it a little. The front panel related stuff I mentioned could all be improved. I think once I get the Media Lab kit installed the cool factor will take over and I'll be thrilled with it.
The only cases I would choose instead would be the Silver version or the New Antec which is MicroATX and and that won't hold as many cards.
Canada