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<blockquote data-quote="Lightning303" data-source="post: 1164425" data-attributes="member: 97876">For now, just buy a 1000uF cap and a 300-400 ohm low power resistor.Most if not all leds tend to have too much blue, and a bit too much green. So without a whitebalance (which you then do in AtmoWin or Hyperion or whatever software you use), you whites will be to blue. So you will have to take out some blue and green. E.g. for me in AtmoWin it looks like this: Red: 255, Green: 180, Blue: 120. These are the rgb values to get the same white as on my tv. However when ou for example want to display an orange, it might be that you need more green or less green. If you now change green again, your white will be a bit off. So its a lot of tinkering to find the best compromise. At least for me.If you dont want to capture (as you mentioned you wont buy a grabber stick), you wont need a splitter, you also dont need the hdmi to composite converter.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Lightning303, post: 1164425, member: 97876"] For now, just buy a 1000uF cap and a 300-400 ohm low power resistor. Most if not all leds tend to have too much blue, and a bit too much green. So without a whitebalance (which you then do in AtmoWin or Hyperion or whatever software you use), you whites will be to blue. So you will have to take out some blue and green. E.g. for me in AtmoWin it looks like this: Red: 255, Green: 180, Blue: 120. These are the rgb values to get the same white as on my tv. However when ou for example want to display an orange, it might be that you need more green or less green. If you now change green again, your white will be a bit off. So its a lot of tinkering to find the best compromise. At least for me. If you dont want to capture (as you mentioned you wont buy a grabber stick), you wont need a splitter, you also dont need the hdmi to composite converter. [/QUOTE]

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