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QAM record problem with logs -- HELP please
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<blockquote data-quote="mm1352000" data-source="post: 751374" data-attributes="member: 82144"><p>Hi again cewillis</p><p></p><p>Thank you for the detailed explanation and logs - I could follow your testing process easily. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /></p><p></p><p>Well, you're possibly not going to like this but I can confirm that the same characteristics that I saw in your earlier logs are present when you have problems and absent when you don't have problems. My conclusion from those observations would be that you have signal strength/quality issues with KMSBHD and KOLDHD (or some kind of interaction/interference issues when tuning analog at the same time).</p><p></p><p>Just to fill that out a bit:</p><p>Your four QAM channels are on two muxes (frequencies). KVOAHD and KGUNHD are together at 139.25 MHz, and KOLDHD and KMSBHD are together at 103.25 MHz. That explains why you get identical "performance" within the pairs.</p><p></p><p>The signal strength and quality statistics are interesting. Before I dive into those, some background for you. Firstly the stats are completely meaningless for analog. The tuner driver will arbitrarily decide whether the signal is considered strong enough to be locked - if the signal is locked then strength and quality will be 100%, and if the signal is not locked then strength and quality will be 0% and you don't get to watch the channel. For digital, the stats have *a little* meaning. I say a little because a percentage really means nothing without a measure *and* a baseline to compare against (% = measure * 100 / baseline). The baseline is different for each tuner (depending on the chips used), which means that you can't compare signal stats from one tuner with another. Anyhow, you can infer some basic information. The meaning of "strength" should be relatively self explanatory - it is a measure of the raw signal level. Too high is no good as it leads to distortion; too low is also no good as it results in dropouts. Anywhere in between is generally "much of a muchness". Quality is the most important of the two stats - it indicates how "clean" the signal is. Ideally you'd have a perfectly clean signal. The more errors, the more pixellation, dropouts, stutters etc.</p><p></p><p>So, for 139.25 MHz (with an analog recording) you're getting strength 0% and quality 100%. Quality is excellent, strength possibly rather borderline. I'd be interested to know how that sort of signal would stand up in bad weather, and what the strength is when there is no analog channel tuned. Anyhow, moving on to the problematic 103.25 MHz. When you're not tuning an analog channel strength is 10 or 20% and quality is 100%. Again, quality is excellent but strength is very low. I can't compare that to 139.25 MHz but I suspect you'd find that strength for 139.25 MHz without analog would be higher. When you have 103.25 MHz tuned on one QAM tuner and analog on the other tuner then you get strength 80% and quality 25%. The high strength is probably an indication that a chunk of interference is artificially boosting the signal. Quality of 25% would be basically unwatchable on most tuners - it means the signal has lots of errors, and that will manifest with pixellation, stutter, macroblocking, dropouts... the works.</p><p></p><p>So what can be done? There are a range of things. The best option really depends on how you're receiving the signals. A signal amplifier may help - the quality of your signal seems okay, but the strength of your QAM signals seems weak at best. A signal amplifier may fortify the signal and allow your tuners to operate in harmony. My understanding is that QAM channels are received via cable, but I'm not sure how you're receiving your analog channels. If the analog channels are being pulled in with an aerial then it might be a good idea to check your aerial alignment and "combiner". You could also check your cabling system - old or low grade cable with poor shielding, unnecessary lengths, dodgy connectors or unterminated splitter outputs should ideally be dealt with. Remove unnecessary extensions, replace dodgy connectors, terminate all splitter outputs... and if necessary replace the cable entirely (some people say that needs to be done every 10 - 15 years).</p><p></p><p>Any comments?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="mm1352000, post: 751374, member: 82144"] Hi again cewillis Thank you for the detailed explanation and logs - I could follow your testing process easily. :thx: Well, you're possibly not going to like this but I can confirm that the same characteristics that I saw in your earlier logs are present when you have problems and absent when you don't have problems. My conclusion from those observations would be that you have signal strength/quality issues with KMSBHD and KOLDHD (or some kind of interaction/interference issues when tuning analog at the same time). Just to fill that out a bit: Your four QAM channels are on two muxes (frequencies). KVOAHD and KGUNHD are together at 139.25 MHz, and KOLDHD and KMSBHD are together at 103.25 MHz. That explains why you get identical "performance" within the pairs. The signal strength and quality statistics are interesting. Before I dive into those, some background for you. Firstly the stats are completely meaningless for analog. The tuner driver will arbitrarily decide whether the signal is considered strong enough to be locked - if the signal is locked then strength and quality will be 100%, and if the signal is not locked then strength and quality will be 0% and you don't get to watch the channel. For digital, the stats have *a little* meaning. I say a little because a percentage really means nothing without a measure *and* a baseline to compare against (% = measure * 100 / baseline). The baseline is different for each tuner (depending on the chips used), which means that you can't compare signal stats from one tuner with another. Anyhow, you can infer some basic information. The meaning of "strength" should be relatively self explanatory - it is a measure of the raw signal level. Too high is no good as it leads to distortion; too low is also no good as it results in dropouts. Anywhere in between is generally "much of a muchness". Quality is the most important of the two stats - it indicates how "clean" the signal is. Ideally you'd have a perfectly clean signal. The more errors, the more pixellation, dropouts, stutters etc. So, for 139.25 MHz (with an analog recording) you're getting strength 0% and quality 100%. Quality is excellent, strength possibly rather borderline. I'd be interested to know how that sort of signal would stand up in bad weather, and what the strength is when there is no analog channel tuned. Anyhow, moving on to the problematic 103.25 MHz. When you're not tuning an analog channel strength is 10 or 20% and quality is 100%. Again, quality is excellent but strength is very low. I can't compare that to 139.25 MHz but I suspect you'd find that strength for 139.25 MHz without analog would be higher. When you have 103.25 MHz tuned on one QAM tuner and analog on the other tuner then you get strength 80% and quality 25%. The high strength is probably an indication that a chunk of interference is artificially boosting the signal. Quality of 25% would be basically unwatchable on most tuners - it means the signal has lots of errors, and that will manifest with pixellation, stutter, macroblocking, dropouts... the works. So what can be done? There are a range of things. The best option really depends on how you're receiving the signals. A signal amplifier may help - the quality of your signal seems okay, but the strength of your QAM signals seems weak at best. A signal amplifier may fortify the signal and allow your tuners to operate in harmony. My understanding is that QAM channels are received via cable, but I'm not sure how you're receiving your analog channels. If the analog channels are being pulled in with an aerial then it might be a good idea to check your aerial alignment and "combiner". You could also check your cabling system - old or low grade cable with poor shielding, unnecessary lengths, dodgy connectors or unterminated splitter outputs should ideally be dealt with. Remove unnecessary extensions, replace dodgy connectors, terminate all splitter outputs... and if necessary replace the cable entirely (some people say that needs to be done every 10 - 15 years). Any comments? [/QUOTE]
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