Completed Silverstone LC-11MS based low power HTPC (1 Viewer)

[level20peon]

Hello guys,

I hereby want to introduce my HTPC. Maybe this helps some of you who are considering in buying new hardware or configuring existing Hardware or Software.

I started this project back in December 2006 so some details might be not up to date



Here are the requirements I considered before I chose what parts to use:

- Low Power Usage (since I use the PC for Server-purposes it runs 24/7)
- Low- /No-Noise Design
- Decent performance
- Simple non exorbitant design



So, first of all here is a list of used components:

CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo T5600 (1830MHz) FCPGA6 2MB 65nm FSB667
Case: Silverstone LC11MS HTPC-Case
Mainboard: AOpen i945GTm-VHL Mainboard
TV-Card:: Digital Everywhere FloppyDTV C/CI Full
RAM:: 2x 1024MB Corsair SODIMM 667MHz DDR2 RAM
HDD: Samsung HD103UJ 1000 GB 7200rpm 32MB HDD
PSU: mCubed EF16 external 165W PSU
DVD-Drive: Plextor PX-760SA/T3K SATA CD-/DVD-Burner
GFX-Card: Nvidia GeForce 6600LE passive
CAM: Alphacrypt Light CAM-Module
Remote: Gyration GYR3101US



miscellaneous parts:

GH-PELX16-C7 PCI-Express X16 flexible Riser card

Cooler 120x120x25 Papst 4412 F/2GLL 0,72W 18db-max

Cooler 80x80x25 Sharkoon Silent Eagle 8,9db-max

80-120 Cooler-adapter 80mm to 120mm


(These parts alltogether cost around 1600€)



System Setup:

As you can see I used a Socket 479 Mainboard which is a Notebook derivated model along with the Intel Core 2 Duo T5600 Notebook CPU. I also added an Nvidia GeForce 6600LE passive cooled GFX-card. These components ensure minimal power consumption over the long run while providing sufficient performance. The GeForce 6600LE is fully DirectX 9.0c compatible and provides enough performance to run MediaPortal smoothly while consuming as little power as possible (I had to use a flexible PCI-Express risercard). I ordered an ati X1300 passive cooled card as well in order to test the video output quality but they seem to be nearly equal in quality and since the Nvidia card consumes less power for the same performance, I chose this one.

The system temperature does not exceed about 45°C under heavy load at room temperatures around 28°C. Power consumption under heavy load does not exceed 70 Watts, consumption in idle mode is around 55 Watts!

The Silverstone LC11MS was the best choice in my case since its small, although providing enough space for my needs, it has a marvellous brushed alluminium design and last but not least a VFD Front panel display.



Low Noise Design:

After installing all components it turned out that the system was way to loud. So I removed the preinstalled case fans and replaced the internal PSU by the external passive cooled mCubed EF16 165W PSU. I additionally replaced the original CPU Cooler (about 70mm, very annoying sound) with a 120x120x25 Papst 4412 F/2GLL Cooler using a Cooler-adapter onto the original CPU heatsink. I eventually added a Sharkoon Silent Eagle 80x80 for sucking air out of the case (which was not really necessary at all but as it is not noticeable I was OK with it).

Afterwards the system looked something like this:

The Samsung HD103UJ HDD was sort of quiet from the beginning, but not quiet enough for my taste. I then used the Samsung HUTIL application to turn on AAM (Automatic accoustic management) and put in some rubber silent brackets to make it even more quiet this way .



Remote control:

Well I then considered how to control the HTPC most efficiently. I tested some remote handheld trackballs (Trust and Targus) and the Logitech Harmony 525 . The trackballs didn't provide enough functions in my opinion and the Harmony 525 does not work precisely enough in combination with the iMon VFD which comes along with the Silverstone LC11MS Case.
So I decided to go a completely unusual way by ordering a Wii Remote. It is the standard input device for the Nintendo Wii gaming console. This nice piece of technology provides some very handy features. It is connected via Bluetooth and has a very unique interface design since it reacts on movement and relative positioning to an infrared target. I'm using Glovepie, an application which allows to freely create scripts to determine which input from the WiiMote result in which action on the Computer. So for example a roll of a specified amount of degrees results in emulating the Mousewheel function, the buttons also are programmed the way I need them, the LED's which are normally used to indicate the player number are used to display the battery level.

I eventually replaced the WiiMote with a Gyration GYR3101US. See this thread for more information about mapping it for MediaPortal.


Software used:

Since this computer isn't used as a dedicated MediaCenter PC I installed Windows Server 2003 SP2 R2 (I need this, because I use Active Directory, DNS Server and Fileserver on this Computer).

Based on this OS I installed the newest Drivers for my Hardware, reconfigured the OS, since it normally isn't able to handle multimedia like it is needed for MediaPortal and then continued to the HTPC part. (I skip the detailed Multimedia configuration part, you can ask if you are interested )

I am using a singleseat Server / client configuration of MediaPortal but I won't describe this part in more details... everybody should know how this works

The mediacenter now looks kind of this:

I hope that this article was worth reading for some of you. If you would like to know further details just ask



So long...

-level20peon

 

[geov]

You did a great job presenting it....well done

Cheers
GeoV

 

[dm15644]

Well done, thanks for sharing your work!

Can you eloborate a bit more on the EF 28? Any issues when you installed it?

I guess the 12 cm Papst is sucking air into the case. How do you get it out?

What's the purpose of that foam (?) on the left and the rear of the case?

Cheers

jayrock

 

[level20peon]

You did a great job presenting it....well done

Cheers
GeoV

thank you

Well done, thanks for sharing your work!

Can you eloborate a bit more on the EF 28? Any issues when you installed it?

I think you mean the "EF 16" . Well when I uninstalled the PSU which came with the case it left plenty of empty space (on the right of the picture). I left the hole for managing cable connections passing the case and to release warm air. The EF 16 comes along with an AC/DC converter which pretty much looks like a notebook PSU that is settled outside of the case (preventing to heaten the inside) and a distributor board which supplies all the connections needed for the computer. I used some hot melt adhesive to fix this board in place of the old PSU. This is what you can see on the picture.
So it was kind of tricky to install it but if you can manage to do some handicraft it is no problem

I guess the 12 cm Papst is sucking air into the case. How do you get it out?

Right, the case is built up upside down so you can see it from below on the picture. The downside panel contains a grill which allows air to pass.

The cooler circulates enough air so that it the airflow cools down the critical system parts sufficiently. There is no sepperate cooler that sucks air to the outside. There are a few holes in the case (the hole on the back that originates from the lack of the original PSU and a big hole on the side where one of the case-fans was installed) which ensure that enough heat is taken out.
As I wrote the temperature is around 50°C on a hot summerday which is not like in a refrigerator but well inside the specifications of computer-parts.

What's the purpose of that foam (?) on the left and the rear of the case?

I initially used some insulation material (Magic Fleece)

which was a leftover from my desktop pc case in order to keep the system quiet (it didn't help though ) before I went on to the steps I described under "low noise setup".
They are now on the one hand just a leftover from this, on the other hand they prevent a direct look into the big holes (The insulation is installed with a sufficient distance to the case so that it isn't preventing the air to flow).



Thanks for your interest


-level20peon

 

[dm15644]

I think you mean the "EF 16"

Ehem, correct. I'm acutually looking at the EF 28 since a couple of weeks because I think maybe I need more power.


I was thinking of putting the EF whatever in and then enlargen the opening where the original PSU sits to fit one 80mm fan. This one would then get the air out.


It's interesting to see that it does work for you without any flaws. Have you measured the power that your systems takes from the mains? In my system it's around 100W under full load, and I was wondering if the EF16 is capable to deal with power peaks then. For instance I see a spike when the TV card is turned on.

Again, thanks for your article.

Cheers

jayrock

 

[level20peon]

I was thinking of putting the EF whatever in and then enlargen the opening where the original PSU sits to fit one 80mm fan. This one would then get the air out.

Might be necessary. I don't need additional cooling because my system runs on low power usage but I think that there is little scope in power usage before another fan would become necessary .

It's interesting to see that it does work for you without any flaws. Have you measured the power that your systems takes from the mains? In my system it's around 100W under full load, and I was wondering if the EF16 is capable to deal with power peaks then. For instance I see a spike when the TV card is turned on.

Yes I measured it, as I wrote "Power consumption under heavy load does not exceed 70 Watts, consumption in idle mode is around 55 Watts!"
Even when I boot the system it doesn't exceed about 70 Watts. Peaks won't be 200 Watts if you run with around 100 Watts under full load A TV card won't even take more than about 15 Watts in general, I guess that you wouldn't have problems with the EF 16, IF youre measurement was correct.


-level20peon

 

[luksmann]

Great job!

how much did you pay for all that stuff?

greets, luksmann!

-.- should have taken a closer look at the text

 

[dm15644]

Yes I measured it, as I wrote "Power consumption under heavy load does not exceed 70 Watts, consumption in idle mode is around 55 Watts!"
Even when I boot the system it doesn't exceed about 70 Watts. Peaks won't be 200 Watts if you run with around 100 Watts under full load A TV card won't even take more than about 15 Watts in general, I guess that you wouldn't have problems with the EF 16, IF youre measurement was correct.


-level20peon

Of course....

I agree, that's an issue with the measurement, I have one of these 15€ power meters and I wouldn't be surprised if it had some inaccuracy... on the box it said that it would consider power factor but I'm not fully convinced.

Based on this I have been running my system with a 120W picoPSU for a while, and the system would reboot when I turned TV on or changed channels. Put the Silverstone PSU back in and the issue was solved. Unless my picoPSU was broken (which I doubt - I sold it and didn't get any complaints ;-)) the only reason I can think of is that it wasn't able to cope with power spikes.

Let's see, maybe I'll get a EF16 or 28 to give those "brick plus DC/DC" PSUs another try.

Cheers

jayrock

 

[r8td]

does your case not have the wood front panel, I can't tell from the picture? I love this case, but the wood is the only part stopping me from purchasing my second Silverstone case.
-Evan

 

[level20peon]

does your case not have the wood front panel, I can't tell from the picture? I love this case, but the wood is the only part stopping me from purchasing my second Silverstone case.
-Evan

There are two versions of the LC-11 case. One is completely silver (like mine) one is black with the wooden front.

There also are versions of BOTH which have a front panel display.

-level20peon