RGB Scart output from a pc | Page 2

Discussion in 'Tips and Tricks' started by Anonymous, September 23, 2004.

  1. Anonymous

    Anonymous Guest

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    As far as I can tell, this only delivers a component video (YPbPr) signal not an RGB signal.

    Most CRT sets in Europe only have an RGB input not component video so sadly this adapter is no use :(


     
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  3. Czar63

    Czar63 Portal Member

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    But this couls be very nice to connect a projector that usually have component as best input.
     
  4. Anonymous

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    I am about to build such a cable, too. I just saw that there are two slightly different solutions around. The one from:

    http://ryoandr.free.fr/english.html

    and the

    http://www.idiots.org.uk/vga_rgb_scart/ Version

    is there anyone who knows the difference (except for the audio add-on) or would anyone prefer any of those solutions.

    And another question: Your talking about "real" 4:3 and 768x576 Pixels. I got a widescreen-tv here, but aren't the 768x576 Pixel-Dimensions still the same? I'm in Germany (so it's PAL) but i have no idea about the settings for a widescreen-tv.

    Thanks in advance :)
     
  5. JeanCC

    JeanCC Portal Member

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    Hi Guys,

    made this cable and configured as indicated at: http://ryoandr.free.fr/english.html and it works great (great picture). I have a Sony TV KV-32FX60B which is supposed to work at 100 HZ. Anyone a good configuration for it to get rid of the flickering?
     
  6. Anonymous

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    I tried the settings and they don't work... I still try (also with help from FlipGer). Sadly I got a Philips PW329617 and the TV switches to a blank blue screen if it detects the wrong frequency, so I cant see anything until it would be the correct settings. First I thougt it would be because of a faulty cable but on a really old tv I can see "something". Alltough it's only flickering diagonal moving lines.
     
  7. scoop
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    scoop Retired Team Member

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    I'm too having difficulties with setting up this VGA-to-RGB SCART cable. I get the same result (many moving strokes all over the screen), nothing that even looks like it's my desktop... ;-)

    Anyway, I too own a Philips TV which originally had a blue screen with no/wrong TV/video signal. I was able to switch this off using the service menu from the TV. Maybe your Philips TV has this option, too? Try searching for this on Google. My TV is a 28PW8807/12, so I don't think the remote combination I use will work on your Philips TV.

    Regards,

    Michel
     
  8. scoop
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    scoop Retired Team Member

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    Hi,

    I eventually found it too much hassle for me to get the VGA to SCART cable to work for me, and really wanted RGB output from my HTPC. As a workaround, I bought a "PC/TV Genie" from "VV family". Yes I know, that doesn't sound too promising ;-)

    It's also quite expensive (65 euro) and doesn't appear very high-tech (but hey, a home-brewed cable doesn't either). It uses a mini-DIN to SCART cable for RGB output, which also looks a bit cheap, but I'm quite happy with the result. Watch out: this output is only for Europe PAL systems. Color depth and sharpness are much better compared to the SVideo output from my ATi Radeon 9200. Some specs for those interested:

    - VGA input
    - Hor. freq. 25KHz - 58,464KHz
    - Vert. freq. 50Hz - 100Hz
    - Output: Composite, SVideo, RGB and VGA passthrough
    - Supports NTSC, PAL (and even SECAM on RGB-out)
    - Brightness/sharpness, 8-level flicker and freeze frame control
    - Vertical/Horizontal picture positioning/scaling
    - Comes with a remote control for above controls
    - 640x480@100Hz, 800x600@85Hz, 1024x768@75KHz, 1152x864@60Hz

    Regards,

    Michel
     
  9. Anonymous

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    Hey Scoop :)

    I got it fixed by now (at least the strokes within the PC Input). They funny thing: It's now showing up when switching to the "intergrated" TV-Tuner, so watching TV is not possible with the PC connected.

    I'm still in contact with FlipGer (since he is a big help in solving that prob). but I'm almost as "far" as you with my decission in buying an external box for two reasons:

    1. My PC has an integrated DolbyDigital connector with wirless surround-speakers (I won't buy an additional DD-Amplifier). The digital-audio-input only works on the 1st SCART connector (which only supports FBAS and RGB. The second connector support Y/C but no digital audio. So i need a RGB sollution.

    2. It's annoying that when running some app that has a different resolution you're stuck again.

    So my questions would be: Where did you get the box? I found it in the US (allthough I need the PAL-Scart-Cable) and all prices where way beyond 65 €. Is the quality better than the integrated tv-out?

    Thanks in advance

    quicky...
     
  10. scoop
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    scoop Retired Team Member

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    Hi quicky,

    Just read your PM; I thought replying on the forum was the way to go.

    First about the box I bought:

    - it uses a proprietary mini-DIN to SCART cable, so integrating DD-audio would mean more hassle. You'll have to figure out how the provided cable works and make one yourself (with an extra DD-cable).

    - I got the box from a local computer shop (Its name is even "Computer shop"...) I live in the Netherlands, and I don't think it can be very difficult to find this thingy elsewhere in Europe. However:

    - The box has some issues: My TV doesn't power-up when this box is already switched on. I need to switch off the converter first, then power-on my TV and then switch on the box... Also, when the convertor is on and the TV is off, the power LED lights up a little (strange...)

    - And, this morning it totally lost my previous made settings, so I have to calibrate the screen all over again... :-(

    - I believe the picture quality is better than the TV-out from my ATi Radeon 9200, but I think a true RGB output can provide better results.

    - About the price: I've got a bad habit of paying too much for stuff... :-(

    If you're still interested, I could PM you the address of the store I bought it


    About the troubles with your cable:
    I don't know what you've tried to solve the problem with your TV, but I assume you adjust the voltage on the "Function select" pin to make sure that TV-Mode is active again? Or don't you use that pin at all? Did you try to disconnect the composite sync from pin 20? I'd bet on that if you'd ask me what the problem could be.

    I hope your questions to me are answered with this post. If you have further questions for me, don't hesitate to PM me to get my attention... ;-)

    Regards,

    Michel
     
  11. JeanCC

    JeanCC Portal Member

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    To all,

    I am still happy with the cable I made but I found the resolution rather low(720x480@60HHZ). I could not find the data for other resolution so I now use the S-Video output (Clone mode) of my video card (the ATI) and when I want to play a game I just switch the input on my TV.
     
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