New Ambient Lighting system - no knowledge (3 Viewers)

Rick164

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  • January 7, 2006
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    Shopping list looks fine, not seeing anything missing (y)
    Oh yeah you need an female jack / socket for the DC adapter as the LED PSU is male.
     
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    The_Stig

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    But it is recommended to use an extra capacity to protect against high currents aswell as provide a small power buffer. And it is recommended to use a resistor in series with the data line to protect the leds.
    No clue how to do this. Have any tipps for me?

    This one isnt going to do anything for you. You would need a socket to connect the psu, but this is a jack.
    Oh...thanks...will change it.
    It can be quite hard to calibrate your RGB leds to give you a perfect white (same as shown on tv)
    What is the result of a not perfect white? White with yellow mixed?

    And furthermore one probably logical problem: don't I need a hdmi splitter too? Or how to connect the pi regarding hdmi? I have a secondary hdmi out on my Onkyo TX-NR636, can this be used maybe?
     

    Rick164

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    And furthermore one probably logical problem: don't I need a hdmi splitter too? Or how to connect the pi regarding hdmi? I have a secondary hdmi out on my Onkyo TX-NR636, can this be used maybe?

    For video capture you can use the secondary out of you receiver and connect that to the HDMI-> composite hardware, less hardware needed however when the HDMI -> composite device is turned on you will be limited to 50 / 60hz (tested it with multiple devices and can't get 24P working).

    That's why I recommend only using video capture for consoles / gaming and for movie playback (24P content) do it directly via AtmoLight / Kodi which sends commands over network (TCP) while leaving the HDMI -> composite device off so you can do 24P, have a explanation about in the Hyperion topic :)
     

    The_Stig

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    For video capture you can use the secondary out of you receiver and connect that to the HDMI-> composite hardware, less hardware needed however when the HDMI -> composite device is turned on you will be limited to 50 / 60hz (tested it with multiple devices and can't get 24P working).
    That's why I recommend only using video capture for consoles / gaming and for movie playback (24P content) do it directly via AtmoLight / Kodi while leaving the HDMI -> composite device off, have a explanation about in the Hyperion topic :)
    I did read about these problems, but: if I don't want to use an HDMI-Composite dongle, how do I connect HTPC->AV-Receiver->Pi->TV (as the Pi has only one hdmi output?!? Probably I am totally dumb now...
     

    Lightning303

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    No clue how to do this. Have any tipps for me?
    For now, just buy a 1000uF cap and a 300-400 ohm low power resistor.

    What is the result of a not perfect white? White with yellow mixed?
    Most if not all leds tend to have too much blue, and a bit too much green. So without a whitebalance (which you then do in AtmoWin or Hyperion or whatever software you use), you whites will be to blue. So you will have to take out some blue and green. E.g. for me in AtmoWin it looks like this: Red: 255, Green: 180, Blue: 120. These are the rgb values to get the same white as on my tv. However when ou for example want to display an orange, it might be that you need more green or less green. If you now change green again, your white will be a bit off. So its a lot of tinkering to find the best compromise. At least for me.

    And furthermore one probably logical problem: don't I need a hdmi splitter too? Or how to connect the pi regarding hdmi? I have a secondary hdmi out on my Onkyo TX-NR636, can this be used maybe?
    If you dont want to capture (as you mentioned you wont buy a grabber stick), you wont need a splitter, you also dont need the hdmi to composite converter.
     

    Rick164

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    Made an connection scheme for it and for the relevant video capture part:

    Receiver 2nd HDMI output -> HDMI composite device
    HDMI composite -> Video capture stick (USB)
    Raspberry Pi -> USB connection to video capture stick

    So no HDMI to rPI only USB as the HDMI connection there is only meant for output.

    Someone on the dutch tweakers forums has made an HDMI -> HDMI prototype which allows 24P and direct connection (no composite) however haven't seen any specs or general availability for it so not sure when that will be out.
     

    The_Stig

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    Guess this was my missing link: connection HTPC-Pi is directly via USB from HTPC to PI?!? And I will only need splitter and grabber if I want to use my FireTV too? Right?
     

    Rick164

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    If you connect the FireTV to the receiver which has the dual output you don't need a splitter as your receiver will output it to both the TV and HDMI -> composite device at the same time :)
    Basically everything what you see on your TV thru the receiver (STB / HTPC / PC) will get parsed to Hyperion.

    Would only need the HDMI -> compostie device (aka HDMI2AV) and the USB video grabber in addition to the rest of the parts from the shopping list, it's a bit weird to setup at first because of all the extra hops but it can work fine as I use for the Xbox One and PS4.

    Hyperion is completely controlled over network from AtmoLight or Kodi so no direct connection to your HTPC, only needs to be in the same LAN.
    rPi is connected to USB capture stick which is connected to the HDMI composite device which gets the HDMI signal from the receiver.
     
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    The_Stig

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    Ok, network...did not think of this. Have a lan around fortunately. Or is WLAN for Pi reliable for ambilight?
     

    Rick164

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    WLAN is tricky as you can get latency spikes and local interference, also need at least 40ms response times for 24P so would go with LAN if you can :)
     

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