Operating System HTPC + HDMI + Win7 and its many issues... (1 Viewer)

[Berns]

I'ts a powered splitter that I don't use to split the signal, correct.
It sits between the TV and the AVR. This way, when the TV is switched off, the switch detects the power off, but still remains a client to the AVR, and therefore, the AVR does not stop producing the sound.

For the history, I actually bought the splitter to split the output of the PC, one line to the TV and one line to the AVR, in the assumption that the AVR would continue to receive the sound feed from the splitter when the TV was switched off.
That setup did not yield required results. So I tried thinking with another logic (the one mentioned above) and hooray.

To be complete in my answer: I use a USB driven master slave power switch that switches the TV, the AVR and the splitter on when the PC is booted (upon power detection on the USB port). Result: press one button and everything works.

 

[emphatic]

I'ts a powered splitter that I don't use to split the signal, correct.
It sits between the TV and the AVR. This way, when the TV is switched off, the switch detects the power off, but still remains a client to the AVR, and therefore, the AVR does not stop producing the sound.

For the history, I actually bought the splitter to split the output of the PC, one line to the TV and one line to the AVR, in the assumption that the AVR would continue to receive the sound feed from the splitter when the TV was switched off.
That setup did not yield required results. So I tried thinking with another logic (the one mentioned above) and hooray.

To be complete in my answer: I use a USB driven master slave power switch that switches the TV, the AVR and the splitter on when the PC is booted (upon power detection on the USB port). Result: press one button and everything works.

Great fix! Do you perhaps have a link (preferably eBay) for this unit?
Emph

 

[Berns]

Emphatic,

The HDMI splitter is a Marmitek Split412. I got it from the Belgian main distributer, through internet.
The USB driven master slave switch is a Power'n Go Checktap. I bought it at the lokal DIY shop.

 

[Harmani]

Nice! My main issue is the HTPC (which doubles as a desktop pc) detecting my HDMI as unplugged as soon the Onkyo AVR is switched off. This causes all open windows incl. MePo to be moved to the primary desktop display. Very annoying.

I've read somewhere that a powered splitter between HTPC and AVR might solve this issue as well, but no guarantees...

 

[gibman]

Emphatic,

The HDMI splitter is a Marmitek Split412. I got it from the Belgian main distributer, through internet.
The USB driven master slave switch is a Power'n Go Checktap. I bought it at the lokal DIY shop.

regarding the automatic power switch.

I used to have one of these USB enabled ones - although some other el cheapo brand.
For this to work reliably you will need the USB port to power down when turned off / suspended.

Some motherboards always output 5v to the USB port, which renders the power switch unusable.
Some motherboards offer a BIOS setting / physical jumper that needs to be activated in order to enable/disable "always power on USB" feature.

What I found to be more bulletproof is to buy an intelligent master-slave power switch that monitors the current power drain on the master.
If the power consumption gets below some defined threshold, like 5 watts, then the power switch considers the main device as turned off.
It then turns of the slave outlets too.

Some power switches even has a way of defining the watt threshold which can come in handy with those ATOM based htpc rigs as they consume almost nothing.

So my advice: get a power switch without USB, but instead one with a user definable threshold for minimum watt.
I think its around 10 eur or something.

Another thing is, some TV's do not like to get power switched off (live it happens when connected as a slave on the power outlet).
example: in my livingroom I have a sony LCD TV, it doesn't mind at all that power is being turned on/off during htpc off/suspend.

bedroom panasonic plasma doesnt like being turned off.
when being turned on again, I have the HDMI handshake stuff being done => half screen issue etc. (no, havent tried new mp version)
but if I run the plasma on its own power socket and just use the remote to turn on/off the TV, then no problems.

another thing is; I wouldn't want a plasma TV to automatically power itself on when htpc decides to turn on.
can u imagine being at work when your TV turns on .. nice burn in when u get home
and htpc just resumed as it wanted to do some win updates

I do like to put the AVR and subwoofer on as a slave device, same for LCD tv's

ofc. if your rig is acting as a tvserver as well, then matters are further complicated as it has a lot more automatic wake up cycles.
how much do u want to turn on automatically in these situations ?
the power switch obviously cant differ between what caused the wakeup

but for multiseats it rocks.

/gibman

 

[Berns]

There are two reasons why i did not go for the regular master-slave switch.
One is that they often are using more stand by power, and the other one is that they require usage of minimum power in most cases.
At least USB is either on or off.
It is correct that one has to take into account USB power settings.
The world is full of choises.
I just switched mobo and both are USB switch compatible.
Also, here in Belgium the regular master slave switch is not all that common, and the USB one was just there.

 

[peque]

Very interesting your power switch approach to switch on/off two or more devices, but I've choosen to use a remote with macro capabilities, and a very cheap ir receiver/girder software... Very big advantatge for me: I can choose devices switch on order, and even set some seconds between different switches on... this way I can avoid some weird behaviours if I switch on tv prior to avr... In my case (denon AVR) that's very important.

bye!

 

[Berns]

Peque, I happened to choose a rather expensive gyration remote that has gyroscopic mouse function.
I'm using the remote in combination with eventghost. The usb driven power switch was not that expensive, and it saves on stand by power, so at the end it even brings money.
Choises all around. That's why I like mp.

 

[kiwijunglist]

You can achieve similar result with 'gefen hdmi detective plus' or 'hdmi doctor'. Basically you program the HDMI detective to any device and it stores the EDID code, or you select from a predefined list of codes. Then you put the device between your HTPC and other devices, make it the first device the HTPC plugs into. Then the HTPC always thinks the display is active and on even when your turn on+off your AVR/TV.

 

[peque]

Peque, I happened to choose a rather expensive gyration remote that has gyroscopic mouse function.
I'm using the remote in combination with eventghost. The usb driven power switch was not that expensive, and it saves on stand by power, so at the end it even brings money.
Choises all around. That's why I like mp.

Thanks berns...

About that Marmitek Split 412... Do you think that cheaper model Marmitek Connect 310 would do the trick? It's also active, and it's the only one available in my spanish reseller... My main issue is still the same, and I would love avoid windows see when I switch off and back on my AVR...